For many, the holiday season isn’t complete without a performance of The Nutcracker. This year, COCA’s first-ever production of The Nutcracker features breathtaking costumes by talented guest costume designer Nicole Roque, whose artistry is redefining tradition while celebrating the familiar magic of this iconic ballet. We sat down with Nicole to learn more about her creative journey, inspirations, and the intricate process behind her designs.
Nicole’s journey with COCA began serendipitously when Antonio reached out in early 2023 with a costume inquiry for That Pizzicato Glow, a piece choreographed for COCA’s Ballet Eclectica for Regional Dance America MidStates Festival. “We ended up creating 10 costumes in a palette inspired by the setting sun,” Nicole recalls. “All the leotards and skirt basques were custom-dyed, and the chiffon skirts complemented the radiant hues.” This initial collaboration set the stage for her involvement in The Nutcracker.
For Nicole, inspiration often starts with a single textile. “Textiles can be quite inspiring, and they’re far more versatile in costuming than in fashion,” she explains. For instance, in a previous Nutcracker design, she used a champagne and gold leopard print jacquard for the Arabian Coffee costume. While subtle from a distance, the print added texture and depth up close.
Her influences don’t stop at fabrics. Nicole also draws inspiration from historical and modern fashion. “For COCA, I’ve been inspired by an Art Deco dress, blending the elegance of the era with fresh, local influences.”
Nicole thrives on the research phase of costume design. “It’s chaotic but exhilarating—my desk becomes a whirlwind of open tabs, art books, and fabric swatches,” she shares. Through this creative frenzy, she crafts a clear vision that takes shape in her sketches, forming the foundation for her stunning costumes.
When it comes to The Nutcracker, tradition is essential—but so is innovation. COCA’s unique take, inspired by St. Louis landmarks, perfectly aligns with Nicole’s approach. “I love designing something fresh from tradition,” she says. For example, she once reimagined Kitri’s costume from Don Quixote in fuchsia pink instead of the classic red and black. By preserving recognizable silhouettes, she ensures her designs resonate with audiences while feeling entirely new.
Nicole emphasizes that function and comfort are paramount in dance costumes. “The more comfortable dancers are, the better they will perform,” she notes. With this in mind, Nicole ensures her designs support dancers’ movements seamlessly, allowing them to focus on their artistry without distraction.
Reflecting on her career, Nicole shared a pivotal experience designing costumes for East Coast Contemporary Ballet’s Shades of a Soul. “When I saw the dancers perform, I had such a strong, emotional response. The costumes elevated the choreography and music—it was a moment that made me finally feel like a designer,” she says.
Nicole’s designs for COCA’s The Nutcracker promise to blend tradition, innovation, and her signature attention to detail. As the costumes come to life on stage, they’ll be a testament to her artistry and the magic of collaboration.
Be sure to catch The Nutcracker and see Nicole Roque’s breathtaking designs in action!